THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: ZRC
MODEL: SERIES 3
YEAR: c1966
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 36mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC

Do you remember the first time you went down a horological rabbit hole?
We certainly do here at Fathom—and honestly, we’ve never quite made it back out. Now, to the watch, if your first reaction is “What on earth is this?”, just hear us out...

ZRC—short for Zuccolo Rochet & Cie—was founded in 1904 by Edmond Zuccolo and Joseph Rochet. The company began as a specialist manufacturer of watch chains and metal bracelets, and it was credited with creating the world’s first expandable metal watch bracelet. Their craftsmanship and expertise in precision metalwork soon led to an unexpected twist: they discovered that the French Navy was tendering a contract for purpose-built dive watches.

ZRC’s answer was the Grands Fonds—a true tool watch, purpose-built for durability, legibility, and water resistance. The present example is a Series 3, the final iteration commonly issued to the Marine Nationale. This watch is packed with innovation. It features a uniquely designed screw-down crown placed at 6 o’clock, which can only fit into the cutout in the bracelet when fully screwed in. This ensures the watch can't be worn unless the crown is secured—while also preventing it from digging into a diver’s wrist. The crown even uses a reverse screw thread. To enhance its anti-magnetic properties, the case was alloyed with molybdenum. The bracelet, one of ZRC’s signature designs, may look almost cyberpunk at first glance—but its expandable construction makes it easy to wear over a dive suit, and the clasp is rock-solid.

This particular watch has been preserved in incredible condition, rare for the model. The gloss black dial is flawless, and the tritium lume on the markers, hands, and bezel has aged to a beautiful, even creamy hue. The caseback engravings remain extremely sharp, indicating a relatively gentle life.

And yes—Jacques Cousteau famously wore one aboard the Calypso. If it was cool enough for him...