THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: ZENITH
MODEL: 01-0190-415
YEAR: 1975
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 44mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC

This is a piece that even most vintage watch enthusiasts know little—or nothing—about. I (Stef) must admit, when I first came across this watch a few years ago, I was immediately intrigued… and slightly embarrassed, as I knew very little about it at the time.

This is the iconic Zenith Pilot/Diver, powered by the legendary El Primero 3019 PHC movement. Produced between 1972 and 1975, the Pilot/Diver came in three variations. The rarest is the version you see here: a glass caseback model with an hour bezel and small teeth markers.

This configuration is known as the "Aviator bezel," while the alternative version—marked in minute graduations from 1 to 55—is referred to as the "Diver bezel." The Pilot/Diver was Zenith’s answer to the leading chronographs of the era: the Breitling Navitimer, various Heuer Autavias and Carreras, and of course, the Omega Speedmaster.

At 44mm wide and 13.9mm thick, it didn’t quite take off as planned. Its bold design was arguably ahead of its time—but it fits beautifully within today’s market, especially in terms of size.

This particular example has survived in superb condition. The tritium dial has aged beautifully, developing a warm patina. The hands, also tritium, have aged differently—as is common with these—and retain a greenish hue. The original bezel shows a small surface crack over the 10 marker, but remains fully intact. The GF lobster bracelet, made in the 34th week of 1975, fits up to a 19.5cm wrist.

The watch came to us in excellent health and is currently running at +4 s/d, with 290 amplitude and a beat error of 0.4 ms.