THE ESSENTIALS
MAKE: ZENITH
MODEL: 95.0100.418
YEAR: 1986
BOX/PAPERS: YES/YES
CASE DIAMETER: 40mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC
It’s no secret that Zenith was responsible for one of the most important milestones in chronograph history: the automatic, fully integrated El Primero movement, released in 1969. The original references — A384, A385, and A386 — remain some of our favourite chronograph models here at Fathom.
Yet few know that the story of the El Primero almost ended just a few years after it began. Like many other great Swiss watchmakers, Zenith was hit hard during the Quartz Crisis. In the early 1980s, Zenith’s then-American owners (Zenith Radio Corporation) ordered the destruction of all tooling for mechanical movements, including the famed El Primero. Thankfully, a senior watchmaker named Charles Vermot, in a quiet act of defiance, secretly preserved the detailed plans, specialised machines, and essential parts — hiding them in a forgotten corner of the Zenith factory. His foresight would prove a stroke of genius. As the world slowly rediscovered the romance of mechanical watchmaking in the mid-1980s, Zenith was ready to bring the El Primero back to life. The movement returned to triumph, famously powering Rolex’s first automatic Daytona — the legendary ref. 16520.
The model we have here hails from the very beginning beginning of Zenith’s resurgence: the Port Royal ref. 95.0100.418, a triple calendar chronograph. If you haven’t seen this model before, you’re not to blame — only 270 units were ever produced, between 1984 and 1986. Inside beats the cal. 41.0 (3019 PHF), offering a date, day, month, and moonphase, alongside the chronograph function, all housed in an integrated bracelet case crafted entirely from titanium — measuring just 12 mm thick.
The watch is as beautiful as it is rare. The dial is beautifully balanced, with vibrant red accents dancing against a crisp white backdrop. The titanium case is incredibly light and comfortable on the wrist, its lines sleek and elegant. This particular example remains in fantastic condition: the dial has mellowed into a gentle cream patina, while the tritium markers aged into a rich, creamy hue. The day and month disks are printed in German. There are a few darker spots on the right subdial. The integrated bracelet case shows minimal marks, and the bracelet remains tight and free of stretch.
The movement has been thoroughly checked by us and is running beautifully at +3 s/d, 280 amps, with a 0.2 ms beat error. It comes complete with its original box, booklet, and guarantee. Hard not be the coolest guy in the room with this watch on.