THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: UNIVERSAL GENEVE
MODEL: 22296
YEAR: 1955
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 35mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: LEATHER
MOVEMENT: MANUAL WIND

Vintage Universal Genèves are some of our favourite watches here at Fathom. Thanks to its recent acquisition by Breitling, the brand is finally regaining the attention it deserves. While the most popular UG models are undoubtedly the sports chronographs from the 1960s—such as the Nina Rindt and the Eric Clapton—UG’s chronograph heritage stretches back over four decades. Amazingly, some of these gems from the UG catalogue can still be had at great prices (for now, at least).

The present example is a Uni-Compax (one complication) ref. 22296: the first ‘2’ denotes stainless steel, the second ‘2’ indicates a chronograph, the third refers to the Cal. 281 movement, and the final two digits reference the case design. You’d be shocked to know this watch dates back to 1955—after 70 years, it still looks as clean and beautiful as day one. The original radium dial (confirmed by Geiger) is absolutely perfect. There's a gentle, even creamy patina on the dial; all lume plots are intact and beautifully aged, and none of the printing has been lost.

The serial and reference numbers on the caseback remain sharp, just as they were when it left the factory—another sign of a well-preserved, lightly worn life. What makes this watch even more special, however, is that it was retailed and double-signed by the Zurich-based retailer Türler.

The Cal. 281 movement has recently been checked and is running perfectly at +5 s/d, with 282 amplitude and a 0.6 ms beat error. We've paired the watch with a set of taupe straps from our friends at The Strap Tailor. This is hands down one of the most beautiful watches we currently have in stock.