THE ESSENTIALS
MAKE: UNIVERSAL GENEVE
MODEL: 42201
YEAR: 1947
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 35mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL / PLATED ROSE GOLD
BRACELET MATERIAL: LEATHER
MOVEMENT: MANUAL WIND
The 1960s and ’70s were a golden era for sports chronographs, giving rise to some of the most iconic models—such as the Rolex Daytona, Omega Speedmaster, and Heuer Carrera. However, arguably the greatest chronograph manufacturer of the time was a brand that had long been forgotten until recently: Universal Genève.
In recent years, UG has finally begun receiving the recognition it deserves—particularly for its sports chronographs from the ’60s. These were largely handmade and powered by legendary movements like the Valjoux 72. One of the most revered models is the Tri-Compax "Eric Clapton," with all-original examples easily fetching five-figure sums.
UG’s chronograph heritage, however, stretches back over four decades. The Tri-Compax line dates to 1944, when the model was first unveiled at Baselworld. We can confidently say these 1940s UG Tri-Compaxes are among the most beautiful wristwatches ever made. The present example is ref. 42201: the 4 denotes a gold-plated case (18K rose gold on stainless steel), the first 2 denotes a chronograph, the second 2 indicates the cal. 481 movement, and the final two digits reference the case design.
The dial is completely untouched and, after 80 years, has aged to a gorgeous golden patina that matches the colour of the case. Most of the printing is still legible (a rarity for these early UGs), and the applied gold markers and gold leaf hands are free of blemishes. The design is perfectly balanced—reminiscent of Patek Philippe from the same era. The (thick) rose gold-plated case is unpolished, retaining all of its original form since 1947. The correct square chrono pushers and original crown are both still present.
The movement, despite its age, still runs well at +8 s/d, 275 amplitude, with a 1.0 ms beat error. UG chronographs from the 1940s and ’50s are perhaps some of the biggest hidden gems in the vintage watch world today. Original examples are incredibly hard to find and remain very reasonably priced compared to their ’60s counterparts. This is an absolutely stunning watch on the wrist—pure class.