THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: ROLEX
MODEL: 1680
YEAR: 1972
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 40mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC

When it comes to the "grail" vintage Rolex, the Red Sub 1680 is perhaps at the top of many people's lists (certainly here at Fathom). This reference has gained a massive following over the years—perhaps because it was the first Submariner with a date function, or due to the sheer number of variations within the model, from dials to bezels. It's the one reference that collectors study to the nth degree.

MK1–3 Red Subs feature “Meters First” dials—these are as rare as hens' teeth. The watch we have here has the first “Feet First” dial, the MK4. The Submariner text really pops on these thanks to its white backing. The lume plots have aged to an even creamy patina, and upon close inspection, are all intact but show small signs of spotting. The hands have aged beautifully, matching the dial well. The silver date wheel is also correct, with open 6s and 9s. The MK3 bezel has retained most of its colour; it’s slightly muted, with the tritium pip still intact.

The watch comes on its original 7836/380 bracelet with an undated clasp—something commonly seen between 1971 and 1972. The earlier-style crown is also still present. The case has been polished but remains extremely full, still showing strong beveled lugs and even crown guards.

The movement was serviced last year and is running superbly at +3 s/d, 265 amplitude, with a beat error of 0.0 ms. You never forget the moment you own a Red Sub for the first time.