THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: ROLEX
MODEL: 16800
YEAR: 1987
BOX/PAPERS: NO/YES
CASE DIAMETER: 40mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC

The 16800 is, within the Submariner range, the true crossroads between the old and the new. It blends a vintage aesthetic with all the modern conveniences one expects—and sometimes takes for granted—in a contemporary Sub. The uni-directional bezel, sapphire crystal, and quick-set date were all new features when this watch was released in 1979. This cocktail of upgrades sparked a surge in popularity and paved the way for the Submariner to become one of the go-to dive watches for the everyday person—not just those seeking a tool watch.

This example dates to 1987 and features a gloss dial. The tritium markers and hands have developed a deep, even cream patina—unusual for gloss 16800s—and it’s absolutely stunning. The hands show some oxidation, but as we always say: the camera picks it up easily, while the naked eye likely won’t. The case has seen minimal polishing and remains thick—especially the crown guards—with only light marks throughout. The original M-coded bracelet (1988) is one link short and has minimal sag.

The watch came to us in great health; the movement runs at 0 s/d, 285 amplitude, with 0 beat error. It comes with its original guarantee. A super-cool neo-vintage Sub, ready for its new home.