THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: ROLEX
MODEL: 1680
YEAR: 1972
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 40mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC

The 1680 has become synonymous with collectors worldwide. It was the first Submariner to feature a date function and the first Rolex to straddle the line between being a tool watch and a status symbol. The reference has gained a massive following over the years, thanks to the sheer number of variations within the model. From dials to bezels, the 1680 can have you studying it to the nth degree.

The watch we have here is the highly sought-after "Single Red" variant of the 1680 range. This piece features the MKV "feet first" dial with open 6s, paired with matching tritium hands. Some of the lume plots show slight blackening, though it's barely noticeable on the wrist. The silver date wheel is original, displaying the correct bold font with open 6s and 9s. The bezel insert is the correct MK3, with a slightly muted black finish that contrasts beautifully with the creamy lume plots. It comes on a later 93150/580 bracelet, stamped “F,” indicating manufacture in 1981. It is one link short and will accommodate a 19cm wrist.

The case, while polished at some point in its life, hasn’t been touched in some time. It shows typical wear marks, but the lugs and crown guards remain impressively thick—one of the best cases we've seen in a while.

You may notice two small holes on the outside of the case back—these are the result of a local watchmaker in South Africa who serviced the watch in the early '80s. Without the proper tool, he improvised with a Jaxa case back opener.

The movement arrived to us in great health and is currently running at +3 s/d, 275 amplitude, with a beat error of 0.1 ms. The "Red Sub" has long been a grail for many enthusiasts, and this example is about as honest and original as they come.