THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: ROLEX
MODEL: 1680
YEAR: 1979
BOX/PAPERS: YES/YES
CASE DIAMETER: 40MM
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC

The ref. 1680 is the original Rolex "Date Sub"—introduced more than a decade after the Submariner’s inception. It features a distinctly different case design and a unique “Top Hat” crystal with the iconic cyclops magnifier. From its debut in 1967 until around 1975/76, these watches were affectionately known as “Red Subs,” thanks to the distinctive red lettering on their dials. Six dial configurations were produced during this period, adding depth and variety to the reference. Between 1976 and 1979, the 1680 evolved once more, now featuring white text across three dial variants—commonly referred to as the Mk1, Mk2, and Mk3 white dials.

The present example is a Mk2 variant from 1979, and it boasts a beautifully aged dial. The hour markers and hands have developed a rich cream patina, while the original Mk3 bezel insert has taken on an attractive dark blue tint. The case and crown guards remain full and even, with only minor marks since its last polish. The correct silver date wheel is still in place, as is the original 93150 bracelet, coded VD and dating to 1979.

The watch comes complete with its inner and outer boxes, hang tag, translation papers, Rolex service card from 2015, and original guarantee papers. It runs superbly at +1 s/d, 255 amplitude, with a 0.0 ms beat error. There's nothing quite like a 1680 on the wrist - and they still represent incredible value in the vintage world.