THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: ROLEX
MODEL: 1680
YEAR: 1979
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 40mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC

Rolex released the ref. 1680 in 1967 as the original "Date Sub," more than a decade after the Submariner’s inception. It features a distinctly different case design and a unique “Top Hat” crystal with the iconic cyclops magnifier. In the first decade of its life, these watches were affectionately known as “Red Subs” due to the distinctive red lettering on their dials. Over time, the Red Sub has become one of the most sought-after vintage Rolex models—a "grail" for many collectors, with a price tag to match.

In comparison, the "White" 1680s are perhaps some of the most under-appreciated vintage Rolexes. Produced between 1976 and 1979, they feature white text across three dial variants—commonly referred to as the Mk1, Mk2, and Mk3 white dials.

The current example from 1979 sports a Mk2 dial in superb condition. The tritium lume on the markers and hands has aged to a rich, creamy hue, and the dial remains free of imperfections. The case has been polished in the past but remains strong—especially the lugs. The original Mk3 insert has retained much of its original black color, a colored pip has been added as the original was no longer present. The original silver date wheel is still present, and the full-link 93150 bracelet shows minimal stretch. The clasp is a later service replacement, coded “W” (1999).

The movement runs beautifully at +3 s/d, 291 amplitude, with a 0.3 ms beat error—an honest example of a Rolex icon.