THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: ROLEX
MODEL: 1680
YEAR: 1977
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 40MM
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC

The Ref. 1680 is Rolex’s original “Date Sub,” and one of the first references that enthusiasts and collectors have studied and catalogued in depth over the years. From its inception in 1967 until around 1975/76, these timepieces were affectionately known as "Red Subs," a nod to the distinctive red lettering on their dials. Six dial configurations emerged during this period, further diversifying the collection. Between 1976 and 1979, the 1680 evolved once again, now featuring white text across three dial variants—known as the Mk1, Mk2, and Mk3 “White.”

The present example is a Mk1 variant from 1977, and a truly exceptional one at that. The dial and hands have aged to a rich, creamy hue, while the case remains sharp and well-preserved. The original silver date wheel is still in place, and the Mk3 bezel has faded to a soft, off-black tone. It’s paired with its original 93150 bracelet, stamped with a B clasp code dating it to 1977.

The watch is running superbly at +3 s/d, with 275 amplitude and a 0.4 ms beat error. White 1680s remain one of the best value propositions in vintage Rolex. Inexplicably, they fetch less than their “no-date” 5513 counterparts—and of course, significantly less than their red-lettered siblings. They represent some of the finest watches Rolex ever made, and a model we absolutely adore here at Fathom.