THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: ROLEX
MODEL: 1680/8
YEAR: 1978
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 40mm
CASE MATERIAL: 18K YELLOW GOLD
BRACELET MATERIAL: LEATHER
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC

Picture this: on this day in 1978, someone walked into their local Rolex shop to buy themselves a Christmas present. There was a lovely selection of steel professional models: an Explorer 1016 (£344), a Milgauss 1019 (£434), a Sea-Dweller 1665 (£472), and a GMT-Master 1675 (£432). However, these steel tool watches just weren’t doing it for them. Instead of buying all four, they decided to spend a bit more to purchase what we have here: the Submariner 1680/8, in full 18K yellow gold on a pair of leather straps, for £1717. Fast forward 46 years, it’s not hard to see why only 5,765 units of 1680/8s were made during its eleven-year production, compared to 111,226 for the steel counterparts.

The present example features the less common blue dial and blue bezel—and what a watch it is. The ‘nipple’ dial has developed a mesmerising tropical patina after years of sun exposure.  Its originally dark blue sunburst finish has transformed into a golden lava hue. We love the ring of blue on the left side of the dial, clearly where it's been obscured from the sun, showing that it was worn on the left wrist most of its life. The case has been polished in the past but remains strong. Especially with gold, it is extremely hard to find them untouched. The gloss blue insert is in great condition completing the ‘old money’ look.

The original leather strap has of course perished. We have paired the watch with a beautiful taupe Saffiano leather strap from our friends at The Strap Tailor. The watch has recently been checked over and is running strong at +2 s/d, 250 amps, with a 0.5 ms beat error. This is, hands down, one of the most beautiful Submariners we have handled—and it’s ready for its next home.