THE ESSENTIALS
MAKE: ROLEX
MODEL: 5513
YEAR: 1966
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 40mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC
When talking about vintage Rolex, the 5513 is perhaps the first watch that comes to mind for many. It perfectly captures the essence of what we love about vintage watch collecting—toolish yet refined, understated yet full of character. The reference enjoyed a long production run of nearly three decades, amassing a rich timeline of dial variations and case details to explore. It’s this balance of history, variety, and wearability that cements its place as a cornerstone in any serious vintage collection.
This particular example hails from the latter stage of the brief gilt dial era (circa 1961–1966). Production volumes during these few years were significantly lower than in the later matte dial era—gilt dials are estimated to account for only about 4% of all 5513/5512 models produced.
Rolex gilt dials from this period were made using a galvanic process, where the text and minute track were etched onto a brass backing plate and left in relief, while the rest of the dial surface was chemically treated to achieve that deep, glossy black finish. The result is a striking contrast that gives gilt dials their signature mirror-like appearance and incredible depth—something that’s become highly prized among collectors today.
This non–chapter ring dial example is stunning. The wonderfully puffy tritium markers are all intact and have aged beautifully, as have the hands, contrasting superbly against the mirror-like, glossy gilt dial, which shows no degradation even after 60 years. The lume glows brightly under UV and falls off quickly afterward. The case is in great shape—while it has been polished in the past, the work was done very well and sympathetically, as evidenced by the thick, even lugs with no pin pokes. The correct 7206/80 rivet link bracelet, stamped 1/68, is still present and will accommodate a 19cm wrist.
The watch has just been serviced and is running at +2 s/d, 275 amplitude, with a beat error of 0.4 ms. Nothing beats a gilt dial—especially one like this. The depth they offer and the way they catch the light is truly something to behold.