THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: ROLEX
MODEL: 1005
YEAR: 1972
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 34mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL / 18K WHITE GOLD
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC

Rolex in the '60s and '70s were not afraid to experiment with different dial variations to see what sold well and where. During this period, a huge variation of dials was introduced, mainly within the Oyster Perpetual, Datejust and Day-Date models. 

One of our favourites and now relatively elusive, has to be the "Shantung dial". These dials were only sold to the Asian market, appearing around 1968 and disappearing around 1978, made from weaving silk thread in an irregular but horizontal pattern. This creates a really interesting texture that catches the light spectacularly. 

Shantung dials were made in various colours, from dark blues to olive greens. They add that perfect amount of fun and romance to one of Rolex's most classic designs, and all age and patina differently depending on the environment the watch has been worn in.

This 1005 example contains the cleanest Shantung dial we have ever seen - it's flawless. All of its tritium lume plots are still intact and have aged perfectly and the tritium-filled hands are free from oxidation. The case and white gold bezel are also in wonderful condition with minimal polishing. The original folded link bracelet has minimal stretch and can accommodate a 19cm wrist.

The movement was last serviced in 2023 and is still running very respectably at +2 s/d, 270 amps with a beat error of 0.2 ms. In this day and age, 34mm is considered by many to be too small. But you have to agree, pictured on an 18.5cm wrist, it wears beautifully.