THE ESSENTIALS
MAKE: ROLEX
MODEL: 3131
YEAR: 1946
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 32mm
CASE MATERIAL: 14K YELLOW GOLD
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL/GOLD PLATED
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC
In the world of luxury timepieces, few innovations have left as lasting an impact as the Rolex Oyster. Launched in 1926, the Oyster was a game-changer—being the first wristwatch to be both waterproof and dustproof. This technological leap was significant, but what truly elevated the Oyster to iconic status was the brilliant marketing strategy of Rolex’s founder, Hans Wilsdorf.
Just a year after the Oyster’s debut, British swimmer Mercedes Gleitze set out to swim the English Channel for a second time. Her initial record-breaking swim had been questioned, so this attempt was under intense public scrutiny. Gleitze took on the challenge with a Rolex Oyster around her neck. Despite swimming for 10 hours in frigid waters and not completing the crossing, she demonstrated incredible endurance. Her persistence reaffirmed her original record—and through it all, the Oyster kept perfect time. Gleitze was so impressed that she wrote to Wilsdorf, noting how surprised the press was by the watch’s performance.
Wilsdorf capitalised on this success by placing a full-page advertisement in the Daily Mail, celebrating both Gleitze’s determination and the Oyster’s reliability. To further demonstrate the watch’s waterproof capabilities, Rolex even sent fish tanks to their authorised dealers, allowing customers to see the Oyster in action.
But Rolex’s commitment to innovation didn’t stop with the Oyster. Between 1933 and 1955, they introduced a series of watches later dubbed “Bubblebacks.” These vintage models got their name from their rounded, protruding case-backs. While the design was visually distinctive, it was actually a practical solution for housing Rolex’s new self-winding movements.
In the 1930s, Rolex began transitioning from manually wound calibres to automatic movements. The addition of an oscillating weight made the movements thicker, requiring more room inside the case. Instead of making the entire watch bulkier, Rolex cleverly designed the case-back to curve outward, creating the bubble shape that became one of the brand’s most recognisable features.
The current example, ref. 3131, debuted in the 1930s and was the first Rolex with a fully functional automatic movement and a two-piece case design. This particular piece dates to 1946 and features a gorgeous 14K yellow gold case. Impressively, 80 years later, the original non-lume dial is still in fantastic condition. The dial has gained a consistent patina, matched perfectly by the gold markers, gold leaf hands, and blue steel second hand. The original Brevet crown is still intact.
We’ve just serviced the movement, and it's running perfectly at +5 s/d, 240 amps, with a beat error of 0.8 ms. The watch came with an expandable gold-plated bracelet, but we've paired it with these straps from our friends at The Strap Tailor. Seasoned collectors will know that, once upon a time, these Bubblebacks were the most collectible Rolexes—often fetching many times the price of sports models. With smaller watches enjoying a well-deserved resurgence, it’s only a matter of time before Bubblebacks take centre stage again.