THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: ROLEX
MODEL: 16550
YEAR: 1987
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 40mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC

As far as “transitional” Rolex references go, the Explorer II 16550 is among the most interesting and desirable. Following the commercial obscurity of the ref. 1655 “Steve McQueen” (hard to imagine today), the 16550 was introduced with a new movement featuring a quick-set date, hacking seconds, and the novel addition of an independently adjustable GMT hand.

Despite its short four-year production run, the 16550 went through several dial variations. Early examples featured white-gold surrounds (WGS) on the hour markers, while later ones switched to black surrounds. By far the most desirable are the “cream dial” versions. Owing to a manufacturing imperfection, the dials on certain 16550s aged to a strikingly creamy tone—seen most often on WGS examples.

What we have here, however, is something of an anomaly. At first glance, the watch displays the lovely creamy tritium markers and hands that collectors prize on the 16550. But look closer, and you’ll notice the dial itself has remained pure white with no colour shift at all. Instead, it presents a satin-like finish, seemingly lacking the usual top layer of lacquer. Only a handful of examples are known to exist, and while information remains scarce, it does not stop us from appreciating the quirky variations within this reference.

This example is in beautiful condition. The original wide-font bezel (which gives the watch a noticeably different look from the later 16570s), the case, and the bracelet are all well preserved. While the case has been polished in the past, it was done with great sympathy, and the crown guards remain especially strong.

Mechanically, the movement is running perfectly at +3 seconds per day, 300 amplitude, with a 0.1 ms beat error. All the vintage coolness you could want—for less than the price of a modern Submariner.