THE ESSENTIALS
MAKE: ROLEX
MODEL: 16550
YEAR: 1985
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 40mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC
Introducing the Rolex Explorer II reference 16550, a remarkable transitional piece that sculpted the modern look of the Explorer II series. Produced for only a slender four years - from 1985 to 1989 - this reference stands as a rare jewel among neo-vintage Explorers, embodying an assortment of subtle transformations, likely inspired by Rolex designers' creative bursts (and perhaps a caffeine rush or two).
At its core, the watch is driven by the calibre 3085, a substantial leap forward from its predecessor, the 1655. Endowed with a quick-set date mechanism, hacking seconds, a 42-hour power reserve, and the novel feature of an independent GMT hand, it offers the modern explorer the ability to track multiple time zones effortlessly. Much like other transitional Rolex models, the 16550 went through several dial variations in just 4 years - early examples like this one feature white gold surrounds (WGS) on the hour markers (rarer and more collectable), whereas later examples feature black surrounds.
This particular example we offer showcases a charming anomaly: a creamy-coloured dial, unique to the 85/87-year serial white 16550s. This 'defect' has quickly gained popularity amongst collectors as these dials age to different shades of cream/beige which give the watch a warm look that is not found in any other Explorer II models. The watch's original dial and markers have matured to a pleasing creamy colour. The dial in certain angles has a small circular mark on the dial where the hands have dragged but it's not noticeable by the naked eye. The correct hollow link 78360 / 593 bracelet is still present with a H stamped clasp dating back to 1983. Although the case has been polished previously, it is still very thick and crisp.
The movement is running perfectly, +3 secs per day, 300 amps with a beat error of 0.0 ms. This 'if you know, you know' cream 16550 is ready for its new home.