THE ESSENTIALS
MAKE: ROLEX
MODEL: 1655
YEAR: 1975
BOX/PAPERS: YES/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 39mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC
The 1655 Explorer II needs no introduction—considered by many collectors to be the ultimate Explorer model, and for good reason. This reference was the very first Explorer II, introduced in 1971 and produced for approximately 15 years. Much like the Paul Newman Daytonas with exotic dials, the 1655 wasn’t particularly popular at the time. Most watches then were elegant and simple, whereas this model was often described as “cluttered” and “illegible” by both collectors and writers.
The 1655, however, was designed with a very specific audience in mind. It was aimed at cave explorers who, when working underground for long periods in darkness, could easily lose their sense of time—particularly whether it was day or night. The introduction of a fixed 24-hour bezel and a large luminous 24-hour hand addressed this niche issue. Combined with a more rugged case, it became the perfect wrist companion for adventurous pursuits. Curiously, this watch carries the nickname “Steve McQueen,” due to its appearance in various commercial advertisements. However, McQueen himself never wore one personally—he was more often seen wearing a 5512 Submariner.
Fast forward 50 years, and the model has only grown in stature among Rolex collectors and vintage enthusiasts. The 1655 is now one of the hardest watches to source—not just because of its historical appeal, but also because it was often used for its intended purpose. As a result, finding complete and original examples in excellent condition is increasingly difficult.
This particular piece dates to 1975 and features the MK2 "Frog Foot" coronet dial along with a later MK5 service bezel. The hands are in excellent condition, with their tritium lume intact. It comes on the correct 78360/580 Oyster bracelet, stamped "M9", denoting production in 1988, which corresponds with a Rolex service engraving from the same year on the caseback. The bracelet is one link short but can comfortably accommodate a 19cm wrist. The case has been polished, though the lugs remain even and thick.
The movement arrived in great health and is still performing well at –4 seconds per day, 260 amplitude, and a beat error of 0.2 ms. The watch comes with its inner box only.