THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: ROLEX
MODEL: 5504
YEAR: 1957
BOX/PAPERS: YES/YES
CASE DIAMETER: 36mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL 
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC

At Fathom, we have the privilege of encountering a diverse array of vintage watches, among which this Rolex Explorer 5504 still truly stands out as a "wow" watch. 

The Explorer 5504, which debuted circa 1957 and had a production run of approximately one to two years, is predominantly found with serials ranging from 221,000 into the late 300,000s. During its brief tenure, it was produced concurrently with the 6610 model, sharing the same case size but with a slightly slimmer mid-case and lower-profile case back. The 5504 distinguished itself by featuring the name Explorer in silver, along with the designation Super Precision on the dial, rather than Officially Certified Chronometer. This detail positioned the 5504 as a more accessible alternative to the 6610, lacking chronometer certification. Consequently, a significant number of 5504 models were acquired through the NAAFI.

This example is outstanding—and by far the best we have had the pleasure of handling. While most 5504 and 6610 models today are found with the later 1016 handset, this particular watch retains its original, longer gilt hands and white seconds hand. A Geiger reading exceeding 20 μSv per hour confirms the authenticity of the radium on the dial and hands. The expandable 875088-stamped bracelet, a precursor to the later 6636, is still present and will accommodate a 19.5 cm wrist.

The Rolex 5504 is also remarkably complete, accompanied by its original papers, service receipts, booklet, box, swing tag, and valuations spanning several decades—all under single ownership.

Its Caliber 1530 movement, with original rotor, was serviced last year and is currently running at +9 seconds per day, with 280 amplitude and a beat error of 0.6 ms.

This is one of the most well-preserved examples of the 5504 to have surfaced on the market in recent years.