THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: HEUER
MODEL: 980.023
YEAR: c1983
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 41mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
MOVEMENT: QUARTZ

The 1980s were a strange time for Heuer. The brand had been suffering from the Quartz Crisis since the previous decade and was struggling—though somewhat unsuccessfully—to reposition itself, ultimately leading to its acquisition by TAG in 1985. However, even during this turbulent period, Heuer still released some gems that collectors treasure and enjoy to this day.

The "Deep Dive" diver model is undoubtedly one of them. Originally released in the late 1970s in both quartz and automatic forms, the design endured well beyond the TAG Heuer transition, lasting all the way into the early 1990s. Perhaps the most famous variant was the "Spirotechnique"—a collaboration with the French diving equipment manufacturer (we also have one for sale). The present example, ref. 980.023, is one of the earliest variations, featuring Heuer branding and a quartz movement, and boasting an impressive 1000m water resistance.

The 42mm monobloc case sports a distinctive crown at 4 o’clock, a wide bezel, and a superbly legible dial. Time has been kind to this watch—the tritium markers and hands have aged to a lovely creamy hue, and both the bezel and case remain in great condition, with only minor wear. We've recently replaced the battery, and overall, this piece represents one of the final chapters of Heuer’s pre-TAG era—a wonderfully fun watch to wear, without breaking the bank.