THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: HEUER
MODEL: 3147N
YEAR: 1968
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 36mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: LEATHER
MOVEMENT: MANUAL WIND

The year 1963 saw the birth of two of the most iconic sports chronographs: the Rolex Daytona and the Heuer Carrera. Unlike Rolex—known for its slow-and-steady design evolution (a 6265 from 1988 and a 6239 from 1963 are largely the same watch)—Heuer introduced far more variations of the Carrera, each with distinct design elements. While Rolex focused on improving the waterproofness and robustness of the Daytona, Heuer placed greater emphasis on legibility and functionality when refining the Carrera.

In 1966, Heuer released the reference 3147 “Dato”—the first Carrera to feature a date function. The first execution of this model had symmetrical double registers, like the Carrera 45, with the date window placed at the 12 o’clock position, earning it the nickname “Dato 12.” While visually striking, it had a fundamental design flaw: the chronograph seconds hand blocked the date window when reset to zero. A few sketches—and perhaps a few drinks—later, the second execution 3147 was born: the Dato 45.

The present example is the rarer black-dial version of the Dato 45, ref. 3147N, which features a date window at 9 o’clock and a single white register (minute totalizer) at 3 o’clock. The result is arguably one of the quirkiest and most distinctive designs in the Carrera lineup. It also represents the pinnacle of Jack Heuer’s minimalist, legibility-driven design ethos—so minimal, in fact, that it omits even the running seconds hand.

The watch has been kept in fantastic condition: the matte black dial is spotless, and the white portions are largely free of tarnish, which is rare for this model. There are only a few very minor marks on the sub-dial. All markers are intact, as is the lume on the hands. The case remains extremely strong and well-preserved.

This is easily one of the best Heuers ever made—and an insanely cool thing to wear on the wrist.