THE ESSENTIALS
MAKE: TUDOR
MODEL: 7928
YEAR: 1960
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 40mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC
We love a vintage diver here at Fathom—our very name is inspired by one—but every now and then, a piece comes through the door that’s just that little bit more special.
If you’re even remotely into Rolex and their four-digit Subs, you’ll likely know that their younger and pluckier sibling, Tudor, has also made some exceptional watches. While the 7928 wasn’t the first Tudor Submariner, it’s certainly the most revered and well-known in the lineup—even though its eleven-year production run is relatively short in the grand scheme of things.
Initially, the 7928 came with a square crown guard case like the Rolex 5512 - only around 100 Tudors with this configuration were made and seeing one today is about as likely as bumping into a dodo. The Mk2 followed swiftly with the eagle-beak case—a slightly larger production run, but still only a few hundred exist. Then we arrive at the Mk3, which is the example on offer here: a pointed crown guard case (PCG), a Swiss-only signed dial, and radium or early “glowy” tritium markers.
Most examples we’ve seen and tested haven’t shown radium past 1962 when measured on a Geiger counter. The tritium does register a higher sievert reading than usual. One theory is that Rolex Group was already aware of the impending crackdown on radium use by 1960 and began altering the lume mixture to comply with pending regulations. This change was in full swing by the time the Mk4 appeared with the underline dial—signifying no radium was used.
This example, however, features a stunning full radium dial. The watch is preserved in fantastic condition - the dial, visible beneath that stunning super-domed glass, is mint. All the markers are intact and have aged to a rich pumpkin tone, often associated with radium. The hour and minute hands are the steel variant—not gilt—but the large bubble seconds hand is correct. The fat-font insert has developed a dark blue hue over time—subtle, but noticeable in bright light.
The case remains very strong and clearly hasn’t seen much polishing over the years. This is easy to spot on a PCG case, as polishing tends to wear these down quickly. As you can see, both crown guards are still sharp and well-defined, even on both sides of the no-dot crown.
The later C&I rivet bracelet, stamped 7/70, remains in wonderful condition and retains all its links.
The Fleurier 390 movement is running well at +3 seconds per day, with 265 amplitude—one of the best 390s we’ve seen to date.
As 7928s go, this is probably the nicest one we’ve had the pleasure of selling. In terms of rarity, these are far harder to find than their older brother, the 5512, yet they still sell for significantly less. Expect to see examples like this continue to rise in value as more find their way into collections worldwide.