THE ESSENTIALS
MAKE: BREGUET
MODEL: TYPE XX
YEAR: 1977
BOX/PAPERS: NO/YES(ARCHIVE)
CASE DIAMETER: 40.5mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: LEATHER
MOVEMENT: MANUAL WIND
The Breguet family completely revolutionised not only watchmaking but aviation too. Most will know Breguet for their numerous horological inventions, such as the tourbillon, Breguet hands, numerals, and the overcoil. In addition to creating some of the most beautiful dress watches in history, Breguet's exploits in aviation are equally remarkable.
Louis-Charles Breguet, the great-great-grandson of the original founder Abraham-Louis, teamed up with his brother Jacques to invent the Gyroplane—a predecessor to the modern helicopter. Soon after, they founded Breguet Aviation, which leads us nicely to the aeronautical horology that followed.
Alongside manufacturing planes, Breguet was designing gauges and clocks for his WWI aircraft. After his two sons declined to enter the family business, he sold the watchmaking division to Henry Brown, a watchmaker and factory manager at Breguet. From 1927 onward, Henry and his son George took over the development and manufacturing of Breguet clocks, later expanding production to include watches.
In the early 20th century, Breguet was already producing custom instruments for aviation, such as chronometers, split-second chronographs, thermostats, and siderometers. In the early 1950s, the French Ministry of Defense commissioned a purpose-built pilot’s watch for its Air Force and Naval Aviation. Thus, the Type 20/Type XX was born—not a model number, but rather a technical specification. These purpose-built, two- or three-register aviation chronographs have since become some of the most iconic and collectible designs in horology.
In 1971, Breguet introduced a new generation of Type XX watches with larger 40.5mm cases, wider lugs, and a thicker bezel. Over the next 16 years, only 770 examples were produced—again with either two or three counters.
The present example is undoubtedly the best we’ve been fortunate to handle. Mr. Emmanuel Breguet (the last descendant of Abraham-Louis) kindly confirmed that this watch was delivered as a gift on 30 September 1977. The recipient clearly treasured it: the case is in incredible condition, with only faint marks visible. The dial is outstanding—the tritium lume on the markers and hands are all intact and has aged to an even, creamy hue. They glow brightly under UV light. All of the original hands and pushers are present.
Inside beats the Valjoux 725 movement. After a recent check-up, it runs perfectly at +3 s/d, 305 amps, with a 0.3 ms beat error. This is easily one of the best watches we've had this year. Absolute killer.