THE ESSENTIALS
MAKE: BLANCPAIN
MODEL: FIFTY FATHOMS
YEAR: 1954
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 41mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: TEXTILE NATO
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC
In the world of dive watches, whilst the Rolex Submariner is deservingly the most famous, it was in fact Blancpain that released the first ever purpose-built dive model —the Fifty Fathoms (incidentally our founder Stef's favourite ever watch, there might be clues...). The watch was born not just from engineering prowess, but from an extraordinary partnership between military necessity and civilian innovation.
Its story begins in wartime France, where Jacques Cousteau, a decorated resistance fighter, modified a fuel regulator to create the Aqualung, opening the door to a world beneath the waves. But to explore it safely, divers needed more than air—they needed time. Fast forward to 1952, when Captain Bob Maloubier and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud were tasked with forming the French Combat Swimmers. They needed a watch that could withstand their grueling missions: one with supreme legibility, automatic movement, and high water resistance. No existing watch met their standards. Their vision was rejected by French watchmakers, but fate led them to Jean-Jacques Fiechter, Blancpain’s co-CEO and an avid diver who knew firsthand the perils of the ocean.
Fiechter brought their vision to life, integrating groundbreaking features into the Fifty Fathoms such as a double-gasket crown, screw-down caseback, and pressure-locked bezel. It just so happens that it's also one of the most beautiful watches ever made. In 1953, the Fifty Fathoms was placed on the wrists of Maloubier’s elite unit, its bold 41mm case towering over other watches of the era. It was an instant success, cemented in history when Jacques Cousteau wore it in The Silent World, inspiring divers worldwide. The legend only grew, with military and civilian models released in the subsequent years such as the Tornek-Rayville TR-900 and "No Rad" dial versions, that became incredibly celebrated amongst collectors.
What you see here, however, is what started them all. This early example features the rare first series "rotomatic incabloc" dial (two liner European issue), original first series hands (notice the triangle on the minute hand), the original bakelite bezel with the very rare triangle marker. The watch has been kept in incredible condition after 70 years - all of the radium lume on the markers, hands, and bezel are intact (confirmed by Geiger reading), and glow brightly under UV. The bakelite insert is nearly without imperfection except for one or two hairlines. The case is extremely full and sharp.
The watch came to us in great health, running at +3 s/d, 280 amps, with a 0.3 ms beat error. It is currently on a pair of custom fabric nato straps, but we'd of course gladly pair it with any other straps of your choosing. This is truly one of the most magnificent watches that ever came through the doors of Fathom, and one that we are proud to present to the world.