THE ESSENTIALS
MAKE: AUDEMARS PIGUET
MODEL: 56023ST
YEAR: 1980
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 36mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
MOVEMENT: QUARTZ
The original Royal Oak, ref. 5402, was designed by Gérald Genta and released in 1972 as the first luxury stainless steel sports watch and Audemars Piguet’s response to the quartz crisis. With its 39mm case (considered large for its time, hence the nickname “Jumbo”), octagonal bezel, tapisserie dial, and iconic integrated bracelet, the 5402’s bold and angular design was ahead of its era. Over the next 50 years, the Royal Oak became one of the most popular and collectible models in the world of horology. This popularity has also driven prices ever higher — the original Royal Oak 5402ST in good condition now commands well over £50,000 (nearly double that at the peak of the market), while its modern successors often sell for thousands above retail on the secondary market.
Although the flagship stainless steel Royal Oak has impressively remained largely unchanged, Audemars Piguet has experimented with a wide variety of designs to meet the demands of different audiences — from variations in dials and materials to sizes and even movements. Among the most popular are the “mid-size” versions, such as refs. 4100, 14790, and the present example, ref. 56023.
Despite its 36mm case, these watches in fact wear closer to 38–39mm due to the shape of the integrated lugs (whereas the Jumbo 5402 wears more like 42mm). The ref. 56023 is powered by the quartz calibre 2506, making it even thinner than its automatic counterparts.
This particular example comes from the first year of production. The standout feature, without question, is the tapisserie dial, which has aged from its original blue/grey to a rich tropical brown. It’s one of the most attractive traits of a vintage Royal Oak, offering warm tones and striking contrast against the integrated bracelet case. The bracelet fits a 17.5cm wrist. (Additional links have been ordered).
Both the case and bracelet remain in lovely condition, with the bezel having been lightly polished. For reasons unknown to us, these quartz mid-size Royal Oaks can still be found at significantly lower prices than their automatic equivalents. A super-cool watch with a warm palette of autumnal colours.