THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: AUDEMARS PIGUET
MODEL: 5611
YEAR: c1985
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 34mm
CASE MATERIAL: 18K YELLOW GOLD
BRACELET MATERIAL: LEATHER
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC

The AP Day-Date is peak 1980s AP elegance, a little unconventional, and housed in that distinctive tonneau-shaped case that instantly sets it apart from mainstream models. This was the era when AP was experimenting beyond the Royal Oak, producing slim, gold watches that blended traditional complications with a dash of flair.

The porcelain like dial keeps things tidy but practical: day wheel at 9 o’clock and the date at 3, balanced by a moonphase window stretching across bottom, giving the watch just enough utility to make you feel organised. Inside beats the calibre 2122/3, derived from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s legendary 920 ébauche, the same ultra-thin movement reserved for the holy trinity of AP, Patek, and Vacheron. At just over 3mm thick, it allowed AP to deliver a watch that was sleek on the wrist but serious under the hood.

The watch retains its original hallmarked buckle and an unworn AP strap. The movement was serviced during the previous ownership and is still running at +6 s/d, 265 amps with a beat error of 0.1. 

What makes the 5611 fun is its positioning: part dress watch, part calendar tool, and very much a product of its time. The tonneau case gives it a distinctive personality that sets it apart from round-dial contemporaries, while the technical pedigree makes it far more than just another gold watch.